A Privilege to Pee, or, Malaysia

Hello All!

It’s POURING outside. Rainy season is no joke, y’all. So, rather than all the cool things I had planned on doing today, I shall be forced to work on my blog. I’ve been feeling a bit sick recently, and strep is going around, so I have been giving into my lazy urges to sleep for hours in hopes of warding off infection, strep-magnet that I am. In truth I am rather gloomy about upcoming valentine’s day festivities, being sans Tom and all, but I am trying mightily to shore up my spirits and make plans with my similarly-marooned girlfriends.  I also have judo on v-day, so the prospect of beating the crap out of someone on that day cheers me some. Anyway, Malaysia.

Lisa and I had planned a four day/three night jaunt around Malaysia, using the less-than-stellar bus system. It’s totally safe (don’t freak, Mom), just not entirely punctual. We were going SingaporeàMelaka, MelakaàKuala Lumpur (or KL, as the locals say), KLàCameron Highlands, and finally Cameron HighlandsàSingapore on Sunday, arriving home around 8pm that night to prepare for class the next day. And, to be fair, most of that did happen. So all in all, it wasn’t a bad trip. It just wasn’t AMAZING, like everything else has been so far. I have been debating on how honest to be about things that I don’t like here. Tom and I had a conversation the other day about who I was writing this blog for. He was concerned that I was working too hard on it and not having enough fun over here. I explained that this blog, although I enjoy having readers (boy, do I!) is really for me, as a chronicle of all that I did and saw here. I want to look at it years from now and remember all the things I did, the feelings I felt and the changes in my heart. It’s been a pretty tumultuous time, and I want to look back and say, oh, that’s when I first started respecting my body, or feeling free from self-judgment, etc. So it’s important to me that I am honest. I’m not writing travel brochures after all.

When we got to Melaka (a UNESCO World Heritage Site, although I can’t imagine why), first stop was the bathroom. #1-you have to pay to use it. #2-there are no toilets. There are holes in the floor. Granted, the holes are like toilet bowls that are set into the ground, so it’s not just a hole, but it’s close. And #3-there is no toilet paper. They (sometimes) sell tissues outside, which you can buy when you pay to pee, but they don’t tell you there’s no TP when you pay. So, in brief-eew. So not a fan. And there’s no soap in the bathroom, either. I was fbchatting with my friend Chris who’s in the Peace Corps in Latin America, and he was telling me about their hygiene issues there. But they live in huts in villages! Melaka is a developed city with running water and television and stuff! Get toilet paper already! It was super-gross. I thought, what a way to start off a trip, eh? But, it was new and real and not what general visitors get to see. In a way, I was thankful for it because it was authentically Malaysia, which is what I wanted, right? Right?

After the bathroom disaster, we hopped on the public city bus and rode into the town center. Something else I don’t like about Malaysia-the salesmen. Salesmen is a generous term. The second you hop off a bus (or walk past a store, or look at a store, whatever), someone accosts you, offering a nice price, good deal, you like? They follow you, never touching you but hard as hell to shake off. I tried saying no, thank you, I tried ignoring them, and finally  I ended up just shouting no and shaking my head vigorously (Lisa felt I was a little rude but whatever, I lived in NYC, I know how to handle shysters). It was really annoying and, if I’m honest with myself, sometimes a bit frightening. However, we managed to avoid them and get on the public bus heading into town.

We followed my LP map to our hotel, which was an ADORABLE hippy-dippy joint called Ringo’s Foyer. There were flowers painted on the wall, the obligatory Hostel Cat (you don’t have hostel street cred unless you have a cat. Preferably mangy), and lots of throw pillows in the cozy common room. When we walked in, a French girl with dreadlocks was playing “Blackbird” on the guitar. I was home.

We set out to explore Chinatown, which, due to  CNY, was closed. Like, everything was closed. Note to those traveling to SE Asia: CNY is not a typical Western holiday. People actually stay home and visit with family, so all stores/restaurants/etc. are closed. For the first three days of the holiday, at least.  Just don’t try to see a couple of places with “vibrant Chinatowns” during CNY. Because they’re not so vibrant.

Melaka is a very small city that was once a major trading port, in fact, one of the biggest. But, the Portuguese, the Arab world, and the Dutch took turns colonizing it and ultimately screwed it over. Holland had big plans for other ports further upstream, so they taxed everything in Melaka so much that nobody would land there anymore. And thus, Melaka has faded from prominence into obscurity. Now, there are a few cool museums, but that’s about it. Sad tale for a port that was founded by a pirate. No joke. Look it up J

One of the aforementioned cool museums is the Melaka Maritime Museum, aka A Pirate Museum on a Big Ship.  Lisa dutifully followed along as I scampered through the ship’s decks like the small child that I am. It was hard to see most of the exhibits because whole families, probably enticed inside by the air-conditioning (not as plentiful here as in SG), were having picnics on the floor, blocking my way. Not something that flies at home. I hoped that some of the information was absorbed by osmosis, at least. The ship’s silhouette was visible from most of the city, and it was at least comical to catch a glimpse of the pirate ship as we prowled the rest of the city.

There is an old fort on the top of a hill that is the remains of a church. Sad to say, common practice around here was to use churches as military barracks. Frequently, there were fires and the churches were destroyed (forgive me if I’ve already mentioned this. I know I saw it in Macao too). The ruins, despite being at the top of a VERY long staircase, were beautiful. Peaceful and serene. Even though I was in the midst of tons of tourists, I felt that God could hear my prayers clearly here. The late afternoon sun was filtering down on us, providing a lovely contrast against the cool, mossy stone of the church walls. The pictures sort of capture it, I’m happy to say. I feel more and more that life is stretches of time strung between moments like these: quiet, simple recharge-your-battery moments when you can clearly see everything in perspective.

Reluctantly, we left the ruins and saw the Melaka Museum. There were kites from around the world (it’s a big deal here, kiting), toys, and local customs and cuisines exhibits. It was really interesting. You appreciated the interesting mix of cultures here, due to the myriad of countries that colonized them. It’s Eastern, Western, Catholic, Muslim, and everything else. Which makes, if nothing else, for fantastic food.

Local delicacies here are vast and varied. Highlights are nyonya pineapple tarts (SO wish I had one right now), cendol (like a sno-cone but weirder), popiah, like an uber-spring roll. I searched for popiah in vain, but I have been told they are delicious. For dinner, we had Indian/Pakistani food, which was freakin’ delicious. And cheap. 14.50US is 50 Malaysian ringitt, so we were able to eat really well on the limited funds we had.  The restaurant was recommended, but a bit off the beaten path. Not for the first time, I was grateful to have lived in two big cities and the street smarts I gained there. A long street might look daunting, but I was able to size it up: how many streetlights? How many people are on the street? Do I see any idling cars or big groups of people standing around? Are there policemen? How long til the next major well-lit street? We got around big cities, Lisa and I, with confidence but most of all safety. Knowing what’s really dangerous and what’s just unfamiliar sets you free from the touristy-main street stuff. Fear can hold you captive-and for the most part, I’m not afraid. I am grateful for that. And the naan was DELICIOUS.

We, being the great trendsetters that we are, did the big KL craze BEFORE going to KL. This is the fish-spa! You dip your feet into a little tank and tiny fish nibble the dead skin off your feet. It's very bizarre and not entirely unpleasant. Lisa and I were squirming madly, but we did manage to last our whole 15 minutes. And I can't argue with the results. My feet are (well, were) silky-smooth. It was a good "pedicure", but I don't think I'll be doing it again soon. I'll stick to fungus-infected razor blades, please. The American way.

We rode in a trishaw, which is a bicycle strapped to a bench (and sometimes not so securely). These contraptions are wildly decorated and generally affixed with a giant speaker, booming bhangra beats. It’s tacky and touristy, but the trishaw drivers are trying to make an honest living, and it’s a great way to see the city. Lisa wanted one without a speaker, so we found one covered in flowers and hopped in. As our driver pointed out the sites, Lisa and I realized we’d seen most of the highlights already! We felt very good about our self-guided Melaka adventure. I already knew we made a good travel team, but now, it was cemented. She is so cool, very easygoing, and smart. We never run out of things to talk about. I am super lucky to have gotten a room mate that is also a friend.

Well, that’s Melaka, folks. Tune in tomorrow for KL/Cameron Highlands. I have a big school assignment coming up, so I have been busy working on that, but I will make sure to have a study break time so I can BLOG! Love you all, and until next time, Sayonara Suckers!!