Full Moon-ing

Hi All!

TWO posts in ONE day? You deserve it, dear readers! (And I want to get caught up before I go to Bangkok in a few hours.)

The weekend after I went to Tioman, the virgin paradise, I took a trip to Koh Phangan, a decidedly un-virgin…well, everything. KP is the home of the monthly “Full Moon Party”, a wild, uncensored bacchanal that’s one part burning man and two parts spring break cancun. It is, quite simply, a bit of a trainwreck. Why, you ask, did sensible, circumspect Sue venture to this island of iniquity? Well, mostly because sometimes I get tired of being sensible and circumspect. I like to do what “the cool kids” are doing sometimes just for the sake of doing that, to prove to myself that I could live that life, if I so chose. Every time I try it, I remember that I don’t like hard partying, and not because it’s scary, but because I just don’t enjoy it. However, every few months, I forget that fact and I try it again. Hence Koh Phangan. Plus, the full moon party is a big deal: it’s sort of quintessential SE Asia. And I didn’t want to be the whole way here and miss it. So, I went.

Well, it was…interesting. I can say that much. Just getting out to the island is an adventure. I flew into Phuket, where I met my friend Maleeka. We then took a bus to Surat thani, and caught the overnight ferry to Koh Phangan. I have to put a picture of the ferry in here, because I had a hard time shaking the feeling that I was on a slave ship. I tried to convince myself it was more like a pirate ship, but honestly, sleeping on a straw pallet, clutching my belongings beneath me to prevent theft, I was less than pleased. I reasoned that when I was older, I would not do something like this, and it is good that I did it now. Good story to tell the grandkids and all that. That thought got me through most of the weekend.

We docked at KP in the early just-before-dawn, which I admitted was lovely, in spite of myself. I had a grudging respect for Thailand’s beaches, which are rumored to be among the best in the world. In the rosy twilight, they were certainly striking. Maleeka and I hopped in the back of a pickup and told the driver the name of our hostel. We were meeting friends who were already there. Once we arrived though, right about 6am, we realized that we had no idea what room our friends were in, and also that there was no reception area to point us in the right direction. I was about two seconds from a hysterical meltdown when our friends, returning just then from a night of revelry, rolled in. We all embraced and went to the cabin. It was jam-packed with sixteen people in two beds. It reeked of booze, sweat, and sunscreen. I took one look and wanted to bolt. Sheena, the trip organizer, told us that there was another room somewhere that had been paid for but was not in use. Maleeka, two dudes from our trip, and I set out to find said room. After trying a few doorknobs unsuccessfully, we spotted it. The treehouse. Yes, there was an honest-to-God treehouse, right there on the sand. We climbed the rickety stairs and discovered a bed and air-conditioning. Shrugging, we all laid down sardine style. It was a great nap.

After awakening in a tree house, I was not sure my day could get much better. I was mostly right. As soon as I got outside, it started raining. (Sensing a theme here? ) Most of my party was congregated under the verandah/hut/lobby, either hungover or actively getting drunk/high. Given that it was raining, the populace demanded a movie. Their choice? Avatar. Those who know me well know that Avatar is not, to put it kindly, my favorite film. Here I was on a gorgeous beach in Thailand with a bunch of stoners, watching Avatar. I was less than amused. If I wanted to be annoyed with drunk people, I could have stayed in DC! So, that was not too fun.

Anyway, we went into town and did some shopping. I met a totally cool new friend, Jayne from the US. We bonded over bikinis and became fast friends. I bought a hot pink full-moon shirt to wear to the party that night. The name of the game, apparently, was day-glo and body paint. In the end, we all looked a bit like the lost boys from Peter Pan. It was sort of sad to me, honestly. Like, not pathetic, but actually sad, to see us all painted up and gyrating on the beach. It reminded me of something out of Kerouac.

We pre-drank at our hostel, which was actually a little bit fun. They do this thing called a bucket, which is like 7 shots of Thai whiskey and redbull. It’s foul, just foul. You share with tons of people (I know, date rape city). I held onto the one me and my girls were sharing and watched it VERY carefully.  I chatted with people from all over, renewed old friendships and made some new ones. People liked me, and I felt normal. It was all a bit hazy in the glow of the alcohol, but I did have a few moments of connection with people where we got past the bullshit. To me, that’s what drinking is for-a lowering of the defenses among friends, to be able to share your heart without being laughed at. And, it happened that night. So, not a total loss. I can actually be quite fun when I’ve a mind to J

Next, we made it to the actual party. I have a wristband to prove it. What transpired after we arrived was a montage out of a bad lifetime movie, complete with a trip to the hospital, me carrying someone in my arms across the sand, tears, emotional speeches, and lessons learned. I will leave it at that. No, I was not the one who needed hospitalization. But the Thai nurse was extra nice to us, and she duly admired my engagement ring when my friend drew it to her attention.

Next day, we all rallied and headed out. Maleeka and I went to Koh Tao, supposedly one of the prettier islands. We stayed at a cute resort that had a pool they taught people to scuba dive in. Their mascot was a giant starfish wearing a snorkel mask. I was sold. We had a nice dinner, got Thai massages (these are GREAT! Why did no one tell me this? It’s very scary sometimes, when you’re not sure you can bend that way and they just PULL, not unlike a trip to the chairopractor, but you have to trust the process. And in the end, I felt terrifically relaxed. And it was like $6, so that was nice, too.) and went for a sunset walk along the beach. A very relaxing day after the revels of the previous evening.

I went home the next day, and, apart from one lovely sunkissed ferry ride seated on the side of the boat, it was a long, unpleasant, eventful journey back to Phuket. I will spare you the gory details, but let me just say that if I was doubting the wisdom of coming to KP before, I definitely was feeling that way after this journey.  I realized how quickly things could go from fun to unsafe, and I thanked God that I had been spared anything bad. I have been extra careful and safe, sure, but sometimes bad things happen anyway, and nothing more awful than a few bug bites has happened to me. I have been very blessed while on exchange! God, it turns out, was definitely on my side, because at the hotel in Phuket (since I was alone, I splurged on a hotel room instead of a hostel) LAW AND ORDER was on TV!! I was unspeakably relieved to enjoy something from home. Next morning I left Thailand, glad I came but not eager to return. Well, until I came back to go to Bangkok. But that’s a whole different story…

Well, y’all, I need to get some sleep if I am actually to MAKE it to Thailand tomorrow. But, until I get back, sayonara suckers! Love,

Singapore Sue