It is with a bit of a heavy heart that I pen this, my final S.Sue entry. It was undoubtedly one of the best times in my life, and I so enjoyed retelling all my stories to you, my loyal readers (Dad, I'm looking at you!). But, all stories, even the ones we love most, have to come to an end. That's okay. It just means that it's time for a new story to begin. As I sit here at my desk in Boston, in the apartment I share with the love of my life, I know that the true adventure of my life is just beginning. But, without further ado-BORNEO!!!
Lisa and I decided WAY back during Chinese New Year, when we went to Malaysia for the first time, that we simply must go to Borneo-to the jungle. We wanted some wildlife and crazy wilderness, and boy did we get it! Lisa was (and is) the best travel partner a girl could ask for. She's such an amazing friend and it's so lucky that the universe brought us together.
We flew out of Singapore and landed, late that night, in Kota Kinabalu. This is not a big airport. The customs part was outside, it was hot, kids were screaming (who takes their two year old to Borneo?) and we were really hungry. But, we hopped a cab and made it to our hostel, which was, awesomely, walking distance to the famous Kota Kinabalu night market. I had a shrimp that was as long as my forearm. For real. I know you don't believe me and I didn't have my camera, but oh my gosh. Delicious! It was fresh caught and grilled right before my eyes. There was no silverware at all. Locals spoke no English. This was a point-at-what-you-want affair-and boy, was it good. I reflected, as I was covered in Malay barbecue sauce, eating the most amazing shrimp I'll ever have, that I had come a long way since arriving in Singapore. Here I was, eating street food with the locals, in the most exotic location I'd ever been, and having a blast! I felt so cool, like this was my life and I was really truly living it, and doing well at it (even Charlie Sheen would have to agree that I was winning).
Next day, we took the bus to Sepilok, a sleepy little hamlet that tourists visit for one reason-the Orang Utan Sanctuary! It's a really state-of-the-art, internationally known preservation center. And there are orangutans. You get to see them up close. Really close. We were staying at this totally awesome hotel, which was so cheap it was criminal. Even by American standards, this place was neat. It had this very cool, summer camp-y vibe, with crisp, clean sheets, fluffy pillows, and yummy food. Most hostels in Borneo are located so far out as to not be restaurant accessible, so you have to eat all your meals at the hostel kitchen. When the food is good, this is great. When the food is awful, it's not so fun. Fortunately, this was good. The people who worked there were all very kind and went out of their way to make us feel comfortable. I was sad to leave!
We went to three attractions-the Rainforest Discovery Center, the Orang Utan Sanctuary, and the Proboscis Monkey Preserve. They were all amazing. You just giggle like a five year old when you see animals up close. There's something really magical about it. Especially baby monkeys, which we saw more than a few of! Rather than tell you, I think I will just show you...
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| Our gorgeous longhouse at Paganakan Dii! |
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| Alien life forms at the RDC |
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| That small dot above the treeline is a flying squirrel. Rad, huh? |
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| Proboscis Monkeys-native to Borneo |
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| BABY MONKEY! |
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| BABY MONKEY #2 (no, it's not the mailman's. Babies are white; they get darker as they age) |
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| This was Easter, and this monkey was doing his best crucified Christ impression. Isn't that odd? |
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| BABY MONKEY #3 |
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| Reflection of Bornean dusk (in the pond. So pretty!) |
Next, we reluctantly left our lovely hosts in Sepilok and ventured further into the country to Sungei Kinabatangan for our JUNGLE TREKKING! This was what we thought would be a high point-and it was cool. After the wild adrenaline rush of Sepilok and the unadulterated glee we felt seeing so many animals up close, Kinabatangan was a bit of a letdown. It was VERY remote-we had to take boats to get there! Our lodgings were more spartan, but still clean. And the food was super delicious-they had plenty of vegetarian options (Lisa is vegetarian). We met lots of very friendly and interesting people from all over the world. We hiked our butts off, sweated our butts off, got way dirtier than I ever want to be again, waded in waist-high water, and experienced the splendor of sunrise over the river. Most of the people we met were couples from Europe on "career break". When you decide you want to change jobs, you just quit, travel for a year, and then get new jobs when you come back! It's fascinating how differently we view work in America. As much as I do love to travel, I'm not sure that I could just up and leave my whole life and travel for a whole year. Four months was quite enough. :) Here are some pics from Kinabatangan.
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| look at this teeny tiny frog! So cute! |
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| I have approximately 80 shots that look almost identical to this. But I think this is the best one. |
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| SCORPION! |
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| Geckos on the ceiling of our lodge. So many geckos. Dear God, the geckos! |
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| NIGHT HIKE! Our wellies are so sexy :) I was so afraid of leeches, you don't even know. But we escaped unscathed. |
Our final destination of this incredible trip was Semporna, gateway to the islands of Borneo. Our plan was to get to Semporna, stay the night, book passage to an island (any island, really) and take a scuba course. Now, I was not going to scuba. I am terrified of scuba because it involves an non-easily-escapable situation. It's a weird quirk that makes me terrified of submarines, coal mines, and anything where my cunning alone is not enough to save my life should things go awry. It has been pointed out to me that this ought to include a fear of planes. I am not afraid of planes. Lisa, however, wore me down until I signed up, on a whim, for a diving course with her. You only live once, right? And besides, the famous Singapore Sue does not shy from a new adventure! It didn't hurt that all the boys who worked at the dive shop were Australian and hot. So, off we went.
Semporna is a little town which only exists to funnel divers to the island, so there's a lot of Westerners there, as well as Western food. We had some pizza that night, and it was de-lic-ious. As much as I enjoy trying local favorites, sometimes what an intrepid explorer really needs is a big old slice of home. Semporna has one more saving grace and that is an internet cafe! I had been trying to get in touch with Tom and my family for many days (no internet in Kinabatangan) and it was a huge relief to skype with everyone. We fell asleep with our hearts and bellies full, both excited and scared for what tomorrow would bring.
Our day started early with a boat trip to Mabul Island. Everyone was in good spirits and I was terrified. I was determined to buck up and enjoy it, but I was seriously doubting the whole scuba idea. What if I panicked? People are not supposed to breathe underwater! Not even the serious hottness of our instructor was enough to allay my concerns.
It turns out that I was totally freaked for nothing. I had discounted a very important factor, namely, my mermaid blood. I have an unwavering belief in the fact that I am part mermaid. Evidence: my long curly mermaid hair, my desire to be in or near the water at all times, my siren singing voice...need I say more? As soon as I was under water, I felt amazing-like I was where I was meant to be. Breathing through a regulator is scary at first, and it's super loud, but once you are WALKING ON THE OCEAN FLOOR, you forget everything except how freaking awesome your life is right now. They had to drag me out kicking and screaming. I will definitely, definitely be doing it again soon!I am so glad that I conquered my fear (thanks to Lisa). What other things could I be doing that I am afraid of?
That night, we partied with the locals and witnessed the awe inspiring spectacle of a sea turtle laying its eggs on the beach. Everyone was just mesmerized, witnessing this ritual as old as time itself. When she finally made it back into the water, we all cheered. I felt very blessed to have been there to see it.
And you guys? The big dipper is UPSIDE DOWN!!!! in Borneo. I was flabbergasted. It was mind-blowing. Yes, perhaps the mai tais helped blow my mind, but for real. The big dipper is upside down. It's shocking. It was a good thing that we had such an awesome night, because our lodgings were gross. Like really, super gross. Plus there was no electricity. And it was boiling hot. I was glad it was the end of our trip, because if it would have been at the beginning I would have been in a super sour mood the whole time. As it was, we just camped out on the beach and stayed away from our huts until we collapsed.
Our last night on Mabul, we watched the sun set over the water and it was breathtaking. I personally feel like I have been gypped on sunsets on several occasions (Angkor, for one) but it was all paid in full. Lisa and I stood on the deck of our wretched hut and snapped pictures like the beauty fiends we are. It was such a gorgeous end to an amazing trip. I'm tearing up a little just thinking about it, because I have been so privileged in my life to see and do so many things. It really makes a person grateful for all she has, as well as humbled by how much beauty there is in the world.
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| Our lodgings. Location: 10. Amenities: 2. |
With heavy hearts, we returned to Singapore, knowing I was going back to the US the following day. My last day in town I visited all my favorite haunts: Chinatown, the hawker center across the street, and Din Tai Fung. I packed up all my stuff and marveled at what I had accumulated. I called my family one last time before I left-and as thrilled as I was to be going home, I was also very sad to close the door on such an incredible experience. Here are some Singapore shots-beautiful Singapore, I will never forget you. You changed my life and shaped me. I will always carry a piece of you in my heart.
My dear readers, thank you for taking this journey with me. Knowing you were at home following alone meant so much to me while I was away. I love you all! For the last time-
This is Singapore Sue, saying Sayonara, Suckers!!
<3
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